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title .“I’m still a little shaky about presenting in New York in general and the  I will do this way that it is perceived,” he continued. “It was really frustrating to always be considered underground [during Hood by Air’s 2010s heyday], but then being the top three shows each season.” He drew parallels and contrasts with fashion legends: Unlike Galliano and Gaultier, whose runway shows were predicated on fantasy and aspiration, Oliver is giving reality. “I think my work is way more based on how real people go about it in New York,” he says. “It’s what I see on the street, and that’s what I want to bring to life with the clothes.” The elongated boots—almost Grinchian with their pointed toes—resulted in a clumsy walk. At least one model stumbled on the stairs to the scaffolded platform. It might seem like a LOL, but to anyone who has trudged through New York City carrying heavy bags, late at night, the hunched strut seemed almost too familiar. Ditto for the way the models paced through the crowd, not totally following a singular path. It was like Brooklyn’s Grand Army Plaza subway stop at 6 p.m.: chaotic.

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title After a year of digital, phygital, and traditional runways, Oliver’s multimedia project is the  I will do this new idea fashion needs—even if many may struggle to understand the breadth and ingenuity of his work. (And more are probably annoyed about the hour-and-a-half delay.) But if the past is any indication, in two years, everyone will be trying to do what he’s doing. That has always been the case with Hood by Air, though Oliver doesn’t seem irked by the ways bigger, larger, conglomerate-backed fashion houses crib some of his ideas. But he is definitely aware of his alt standing in fashion. He is the most insider of outsiders, obsessed over by the most influential art directors, retailers, editors, stylists, and shoppers, but is rarely granted the same status and unquestioned praise as those who play by the fashion rules. Part of that has to do with fashion’s ongoing exclusion of Black creators; here Oliver says that people who aren’t Black “think that we’re constantly copying white culture when we’re actually, like, the ones who are experiencing America and ways of dressing more than other people.

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